The beginning of a chaos cult

Starting to paint a CC squad.
Found some old mordheim possessed cultists and are making minot conversions.

Here are the first two:





And I would like to put that gun on that gimp, but do not know how to scrape off that much tin. Any suggestions? Or are the idea futile? The shaft of the axe connents with the torso all the way over:

Subtle but nice conversions!
I use a dremel for my "metal" conversions. Be sure to wear some sort of safety glasses when hacking and sawing with a dremel on your models because the metal parts will fly everywhere!

cool start to an interesting squad....

look forward to seeing the rest....

what faction will they be? Slaanesh, Khorne, Nurgle, Tzeentch or Chaos Undivided?


Cheers
LGW

I like the pointy-head guy... where is that model from? What are you aiming for (in terms of colors... not Targets!) Cool work!

Ok heres the 2'nd WiP for the "pointy hat" guy:



A red / black / gold scheme =)

WOW! I just censored myself! I will PM you.

You can find him here:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat490056a&rootCatGameStyle=



The model have been basecoated with Calthan brown and Gore Red, and washed down with devlan mud. Now im gonna put a layer of 50/50 Blood red and gore red for the cloak, and 50/50 black /codex grey for the mouth cloth. Hopefully the colours will work, otherwise: clean / rinse / dry / repeat

CLEVER CONVERSION!

The Bolt Pistol threw me off! Excellent work!

The Mordheimer not recognizing an original Mordheim warband?!

The Bolt Pistol threw me off! After seeing the Warband I was.. SHAME ON ME! Heheheh

Cool conversions, simple but effective (best kind). Good strong colour scheme too.

Good luck with the conversion on the metal guy. I hate metal for converting (and painting) - I always manage to hurt myself. Various hand stab wounds and the occasional expletive followed by a gushing thumb or two prompted me to buy a pair of kevlar gloves to protect my holding hand (not to mention safety glasses).

Look forward to seeing what else is in the pipeline.

Cheers Laney

Good uderway with my CSM:



Basecoated with a 50/50 black and gore read, and painted a layer of gore red on top of that...

Does not seem to have too much layering in this model... but I will try =)

I find it hard to paint with the bronze, as it klump up, but I think it will make a fine tabltop in the end

Have washed with badab black on the armor, and gryphon sepia on the bronze.



Am reluctant to go on to the next step, wich i believe is the repainting / highlighting of the armor... but I am "scared" of ruining the mini and having to start over

I cannot decide wether I should stay on gore red, or go up a step to blood red... Highlight / armor weathering will probs be with boltgun metal.

Clumping Paint: Put a drop or two of water and in the bottle... also a plastic BB (or tiny marble)... will help with the mixing! MIX WELL! Open and check... if clump, add 1 or 2 drops of water and mix well. Repeat until consistency is reached. If too watery (you did not checked!), let the jar open for 3 or 4 hours, cap and mix.

You model is looking great! Again... you have an amazing eye for choosing a nice palette of colors. I think the mark of a great visionary is to be 'scared' about ruining the model. It means that you have surprised yourself with your work... GREAT! But... don't be! You can do wonderful things... but they take time and practice. Some model has to be 1st. YOU CAN DO THIS!!! I remember feeling that I needed a diaper change... I was in the STORE... lots of friends (and strangers) there. The owner (SUPER GREAT GUY!) was coaching me. For him, this was absolutely nothing... for me, the end of the world. I was about to chicken out and he told me "You either paint the highlight, or you leave and don't come back." I was flabbergasted... he laughed "I'm kidding. You are so gullible! Here is the deal... do the highlight the best you can. If you don't like it, I will repaint the model so you can try again when you think you are ready." I took the challenge... went to a corner (literally) and painted the damned lines... HOLY COW!!! I was so happy! I even hugged the man... he is 6'6", weighing over 250lbs and a bushy beard (his nickname is Wookie)... People laughed. He went to pick the battle axe from behind the cash register (no baseball bat for him!) "If you do that again, I will have to teach you how to paint with your left hand..." People moved away from me... chuckling.

YOU CAN PAINT THE HIGHLIGHTS!!!

How to highlight for the un-initiated... in a dark room put a LAMP shining from the top-right of the model (or whenever)... look at the model. Where is the light hitting? Where are the shadows? Where the light hits is where we will work... and where the shadows hit, we won't touch.

Maybe this helps to visualize an EXTREME highlighting... also known as a Gem Effect. You have a 1" rectangle and the light is on top of it, to the side and front. The top front right corner gets the most light. Concentrating just on the front face... easier to describe. The area is Gore Red, washed black. From the center towards the top corner, you paint Gore Red. At half (maybe less) you paint red. At half, paint red-orange. Half that, orange. The very corner, bright yellow. The effect is that the rectangle 'shines' from the corner. Highlighting is a more subtle effect... less colors, same principle.

Now, take the SAME color you used. You see, you started on a very dark shade of Gore Red (mixed with Black). Then painted Gore Red on it, but washed it with Black. This resulted in a very seaming-less transition (BRAVO!) Now... paint with Gore Red! It will look 'brighter' but not much. Remember to have the paint on the "watery" side, so you get a continuous blend. Hell... PM Dozer, so he tells you (and everyone) about his 'sponge' method for wet palette... BRILLIANT!

If you screw up... guess what? Just wash over it! EASY! No need for repainting the whole model. After you finish, you may NOT see the highlights. If you don't unless you pay extreme attention... you did AMAZING! Why? Because your brain can't see the scale difference... you tricked yourself. THAT IS HARD!

Now, take red... YES! Plain old red! Compared to the Gore Red, this thing looks bright. You do not want to paint the whole 'border" (like you did with the IG Shoulder Pad)... just where the light hits. You want to use a "00" or a "000" size brush (the more zeroes on the size, the smaller the brush... for eyes I like the "0-25" or 25 zeros... so a "000" seems huge to me!) and you want to use some watery red on those shadow sections. WHAT IS THE SECRET? This will blow your mind... at least it blew mine.

USE THE SIDE OF THE BRUSH.

What the hell? You see, we tend to paint with the tip of the brush... like a pencil. That is why we get wavy lines if the paint is thin. Instead, use the SIDE of the brush to paint those thin lines. Barely touch the brush to the model and you get consistent size lines. It works! Try it. The smaller (thinner) the line you want, the easier it is. It is ridiculous.

After the paint dries, get Fiery Orange. Mix it 50:50 with red. Don't paint the whole area you painted red (which should be already less than the gore red!)... you paint less, a little brighter. See if you like the result... if you want more, just repeat with orange (less area).

Let us know how you did. Using Rob Schneider's famous words...

MasterSlowPoke wrote:

The Mordheimer not recognizing an original Mordheim warband?!

Hahaha I was thinking the same thing when I read his reply!