Cities Of Death Question....?

Hey there, I was looking over your thread concerning the Imperial City Set.

I am expecting a set soon and have a quick question.

When seperating the floor panels did you remove all of the excess from the sides of each tile?
I was wondering how best to match them up with the wall segments, so they are flush with one another.
Can't wait for it to arrive, I am hoping to make it as modular as I can, allowing for as much variation in set up as possible.

Thanks!
Da 'Eavy

HAHAHAHAH!!! Don't ask Dozer... the man STILL trying to get the glue out of his hair!

I personally liked building stuff. What I did was a little crazy... but it helped. I took ALL the parts from the sprues and remove the big chunks. I the put all similar parts on zip-lock plastic bags. It made easier to look for parts.

Something important... there are minimalistic instructions... so this is an 'inspirational' build. I put the parts on the table, like if I were to glue them. Once I had the building done, then I took to parts, check the fit and glue. Rinse and repeat until finished.

Thanks for the quick response!

About the floor tiles though... Did you take off all the spare thin plastic stuff between that was holding them together?

I only ask because I need to know if I attach a floor piece to the wall will they will fit together with another wall/floor segment without any nasty gaps.
Do you know what I mean? It's kinda hard to describe.

Can you give me more information on this?
Thanks again

Sure. Glad to help.

Leave the piece as a giant rectangle, and try to avoid breaking them... makes for an easier build! If I need to make the rectangles shorter, I made a cut on the 'in between' spaces of the tiles. It does not need to go deep. It just needs to be there to lower the plastic's resistance. Then, I put the piece in front of me (so I see a rectangle, rather than a think line) with the cut section away from me (so I don't see it.) Then I grabbed the piece with both hands, right thumb on the right tile (close to the division in which I made the cut) and left thumb on the left tile.

Then, with a fast snapping motion, push your thumbs forward and your fingers backwards. The part will snap like a twig... just along the line you made. I was SUPER impressed how clean the cut was!

Another tip... if you have to make an "L" with two floor parts... use parts of the sprue UNDER it... and make reinforcements. You do not see them (unless you flip the terrain upside down, and makes the section VERY stable. Check the Terrain section on Mikelopolis... it will help!

I had another good look at the Mikelopolis, that was were I landed here when searching for CoD build help.

Congratulations on the build themselves, they look awsome!

It looked like the Floor tiles on your buildings were very neatly fitted together. Did you file down the edges after seperating them?
I'm really concerned over this because if I get it wrong, in a long section the floor will start running out of sync with the walls.

The Imperial City arrived today! I am being made to wait because it's a birthday gift, I managed to sneak a peek after saying "I need to make sure it's all there" it was. I felt like picking it up and

Another quick question, where did you find the model you used as a statue? Are they still available?
I would love to do something like that in my terrain! Fantastic! Looks expensive though.

Thanks again bro!

Hehehe... thanks!

Da Eavy wrote:

It looked like the Floor tiles on your buildings were very neatly fitted together. Did you file down the edges after exasperating them? I'm really concerned over this because if I get it wrong, in a long section the floor will start running out of sync with the walls.

After I snapped the floor tile apart (in the few rare instances I had to!) I did some filing... but it was minimal. The break is VERY clean! I mean, I hacked them ( ), saw them (no) and snap them (YES!). You are right, the floor will give you that level you need.

I started with a small building (the little 'tower')... I suggest you make something a little larger (maybe 3-1/2 panels long and 1-1/2 panels wide) to get the hang of it. Do not fear the plastic. You will do just fine!!!

Post pics of your work in progress.

Da Eavy wrote:

Another quick question, where did you find the model you used as a statue? Are they still available?
I would love to do something like that in my terrain! Fantastic! Looks expensive though.

Ahhh... Valerium! He is an INQUISITOR size Space Marine. You can find them on eBay for ~$15.

Thanks for the encouragement!

Will definately try and get some pics to you as soon as I can start.
It'll be 6 mnths before my birthday and I get my grubby hands on the big kit but I have 2 buildings to be going at for now.

I have seen an Inquisitor figure going on ebay uk It's the Delphan Gruss model.
Adeptus Mechanicus, so he could stand over the Manufactorum, don't really like the look of his drill arm but otherwise he's a cool figure.
There is also Inquisitor Navis Nobilitai his pose is more statuesque but I'm unsure if he really fits into the Space Marine look. He's still an Imperium figure so maybe i can get away with it. What do you think?

Speak soon!

SIX MONTHS!?!?! Dude, I will be dead in 6 months... well, not really... but I just want to see your buildings complete!

Yes... it will work! They sell textured paint... look for one with SMALL grain. Medium grain (the one I used!) is TOO BIG! Light coats from 12 to 16" away. Screw that it takes the whole can... you will get the PERFECT stone look AND feel.

I know what you mean I'll prolly be dead in 6 months through anticiptaion killing me.
I scratch built a small shed last night. Like the corrugated iron hut thing. Nothing special just sprue and cardboard. Looks effective because the ridges on the card were very small. A lot cheaper than the CoD stuff
I might have him and aged metal statue rather than the stone effect. Plenty of time to decide. There's another stone effect i could go with, seemingly you give it one coat with a substance then add a colour coat and it crazes/cracks as it dries.
Will have to experiment.
Which statue would you go for? The Delphan drill arm or Noble Navis?

Where are the pics?!?!

Delphan best!

Mordheimer wrote:

Where are the pics?!?!

Delphan best!

You want pics of the shed? Lol
Or did you mean the models?

errrr... BOTH! Hehehe... the shed man... the shed!

LOL ok give me 10-15 min and I'll post em up.
I need to paint the support beams and glue on the panels. It's a bit clean right now but will be mucked up soon....
brb...

*edit* Glue is taking forever to dry.... Damnable PVA
Might have to wait till the morning, if I'm up late enough I'll get them on tonight!

*edit 2* Not happening tonight bud. All glued now, went to take pics and cam batteries died They're on charge so hopefully sort it in the morning. Don't get excited, it's really nothin special. Like a cube with a hole cut out

About the Inquisitor models, I think I'm gonna hold out a while and see if I can grab Techpriest Tezla. Been looking at the inquisitor models and he really appeals the most! He has a big Chainaxe!
Might be hard to get hold of though...

No prob man... no hurry! I'm just dying to see the shack!

Mordheimer wrote:

errrr... BOTH! Hehehe... the shed man... the shed!

Mordhiemer made me do it......

The Clean Shed




Sprue and cardboard. Needs another coat then beating up.
Some CoD stuff I've started painting in the background, look closely and you can see the Imperial City box that I'm not allowed to open yet....

You are a brave man... having that Imperial City box just sitting there. Better than me, at least!

The shed looks good. If I may make some constructive notes.
* I know you said is still WiP.
* If the large rectangle is a door... I think the bottom is slightly too off the ground. Imagine if the door frame to your house started at knee high. It takes the illusion away of being a little shed.
* Bullet holes. Add some.
* Add something to the roof... maybe an old car tire.
* Weathering. Easy to do! Take a little of black wash (ink) and go over the shack. Then take some brown wash and 'drip' it on the junctions (like the window frame.) Then drybrush boltgun metal in SOME areas (to simulate no rust) Weather the bullet holes!

Keep up posted man!

I'd be a braver man if i tried to open it, as it's only the "Dreaded Wraith of the Mrs" stopping me.

The plan was to put a platform from a battlefield accessories kit in front of the door as a step of sorts. I'll be adding the broken door, an ammo crate and a barrel or 2.
Hadn't thought of adding to the roof but I'll think of something, maybe an antennae? Will see.
As for battle damage, I will be adding bullet holes and cutting out some areas and adding panels, giving it a "patch up" impression, hopefully without it looking too Orky
I had planned a couple of washes, I thought mud and black washes. I wanted to try a rust effect but this is a first for me so would have to experiment first.

Thanks for the input!

Cool... keep it up, and post pics!

Hey people,
This question is aimed in the general direction of Mordheimer but please chip in if you can help advise me on this.
Just a few months left until I get my dirty mitts on the Imperial City set which I was ever so close to!
I've said I wanted to make it as modular as possible and I've been toying with the idea of magnetizing.
My question is do you think this is feasible? Would it be possible to have magnets holding the walls together? Also would a floor section support the weight of a mini if magnetized to the walls?
Another concern of mine is how to install a bar magnet, I would need to make a little trench to house the magnets which are 4mm x 2mm x 1.3mm. I have looked around for small magnets and done some measuring this size is possibly my best option should this work. The 2mm side would be the contacting face.
In theory it could work and would allow for massive modularityness.
What do you guys think?

I do NOT think magnets are the way to go. If you bump your building, it would wabble or collapse in the middle of the game. I would suggest making smaller sections, that ARE modular (like parts of Mikelopolis.)

Even with the super strong neodymium magnets?
I agree a knock could be devastating but I'm intrigued by just how much of a knock it would take.
Your point about making sections is a good one, maybe I could apply magnets within a static structure?
I do love magnets

That is a possibility... but you would have to get the bigger ones (1/4")... and make sure that are the STRONG ones. Cheap Neodymium (Rare Earth) magnets are rated N32 (very strong for magnets... a fridge magnets is an N8), but you WANT those rated at least N46 (normally used in micro-motors. Those things are like super-glue!

I like the idea of making 'sections' glued together, and having magnets to link the 'sections' together. That would provide excellent stability. Make sure that the magnets are 'flush' to the plastic... that way when you put parts together, there are no gaps.


HINT!!!!
In my XP working with magnets.. make sure that the same side (positive or negative polarity) are on the same side! My advise if to make a 'building corner'; you know a pair of walls in 90 degree angles with a floor on top (to link the walls) and another piece of floor to make a roof. Now, work the piece and glue FLUSH a magnet on the bottom. After it dries (this is CRITICAL! If you stick 2 rare magnets with some glue between them, you can kiss god-bye any chance of ever separating them!) drop a magnet so it sticks to the bottom magnet. Now, with a sharpie (marker, paint, whatever) color the exposed side of the magnet. Carefully remove the magnet and glue it flush (COLOR SIDE DOWN) to the top of the section. Now, your section will have the same polarity on the top (+ or -) and the opposite on the bottom. You can use this section as a template... once you have the next section ready for magnets, drop a magnet on the bottom and color it. Then glue it flush (COLOR SIDE OUT) on the bottom. Repeat the same process for the top (drop on top, color and glue color out)... now ALL your sections will be 100% compatible and interchangeable.

Thanks a lot for that sir! I'm sure it will help a lot when it comes time to put theory into practice.
It's going to take a great deal of planning to try to put this into effect.
The magnets I mentioned (4x2x1.3mm) are rated N35. I've been looking at the wall and floor pieces and they should house these magnets quite effectively. Anything bigger would not fit into the pieces without actually showing bare magnet. I've considered using magnets coupled with steel strips to get a bond without a pole issue.
Another method I've heard of is to mark a strip of magnets on the sides then embed one side in one piece and the other side of the strip into the piece to meet it. It's hard work to explain without showing you.
This guy does it in a fashion at about 4min into this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rc9yf5y_kio
I'm sure I'll be back, crying for help when it comes time
Working in three dimensions brings a whole other world of issues.
I'll hopefully have enough stuff to have a practice or three.